February 08, 2011

AWP in DC: The Aftermath

That'll do, DC, that'll do. 

We managed to not bombard the conference-goers with ice or snow. The connection between the Marriott and Omni was labyrinthine, and some panels in obscure locations, but at least you didn't have the claustrophobia of overcrowded elevators struggling to reach both programs and participant rooms. The totes were good; the guides were helpful. Water was in supply. The Marriott hotel bar's open layout made it a worthy place to meet up. (I can't vouch for the speed of their service, because that's what flasks are for.) The bookfair lacked flow but from this point onward that's going to be an issue every time we don't host in a conference center. 

The Omni was the redheaded stepchild of the two hotels. That's a shame; from the velvet-swagged windows to the opulent foyer, its style is much more distinct (if throwback) to DC than the Marriott, which has scrubbed away identifying elements of the Langston Hughes/Vachel Lindsay days. Did you know that when the Shoreham first opened, it had an ice rink in the lobby? And a furniture factory in the basement, to provide custom pieces? FDR had his first inaugural ball there. Helen Hayes used to bring her kids to their Easter Egg hunts. The Beatles stayed there the first time they came to DC--they were given an entire floor to themselves. I hated hearing people dismiss it as the lesser hotel. Sure, the Omni bar was a ghost town, but therefore ideally suited for discreet AWP hook-ups. There's a fine & honorable tradition of those.  

It's impossible to wrap my head around the conference in a narrative way, so I'll just mention some highlights. Apologies in advance for the gratuitous name dropping...

Most moving moment: Hearing Sonia Sanchez read Langston Hughes' work and reflect on his legacy. I got the shivers. Afterwards she told me that the first time she ever met Hughes, she waited for an hour in line at one of his readings--only to panic when she finally got up there, leaving without saying anything of substance. We've all been there!

Best fiction readings: Alix Ohlin ("Fiction and the American Scholar"), Jennine Capó Crucet ("Potomac Review Celebrates Best of 50"), and Jessica Francis Kane ("Greywolf Press Reading"). These readings weren't particularly edgy or bombastic; they didn't have the buzz attached to readings from Mary Gaitskill or Junot Diaz. But they were captivating pieces with funny, memorable voices--from authors I might otherwise have not known about, but whose work I will now look for. That, in my mind, is the main purpose of an AWP reading. 

Best poetry readings: Brian Teare (Blackbird/Diode Offsite Reading), Nick Flynn ("Greywolf Press Reading") and Eric McHenry (Waywiser/Entasis press Offsite Reception). My motives are different when listening to fellow poets, whose work I already know and love. In these cases I heard new poems that are going to get a LOT of praise in the coming days. Brian's long poem was bracing, brave, sophisticated in its thematic execution; Nick deserves major credit for clambering back from the world of memoir; Eric's poems, based on observations from his "Evan Said It" blog, are going to draw flattering comparisons to Ogden Nash.

Book I was most excited to hold in my hot little hand: Maureen Thorson's Applies to Oranges, a gorgeous new release from Ugly Duckling Presse. Watch out, world! 

Personal pride: Watching Richard McCann being a consistently thoughtful, witty presence on panels. Being able to say, "He was my teacher." 

Personal joy: Having Ed Skoog call me his "Virgil", i.e., his poet-guide to DC in the time spent here as a Jenny McKean Moore resident. Any time, Ed, any time. (I must have missed the part in the Inferno where Virgil divines the location of good beer on draft.) 

Personal mortification: Bumping into a poet-friend and realizing, at last year's conference, I'd had a foot-in-mouth moment--upon learning of an honor she'd received, assuming aloud that it was another, lesser opportunity--and she had carried that moment around as a hurt ever since. You know who you are. I'm really sorry. 

Best conversation of importance: Being counseled by the amazing Jessica Handler on a bad run-in with a big magazine (versus her awesome and well-deserved run-in with Vanity Fair). 

Best conversation of no importance: Helping Brian Turner plan how to better accessorize his black velvet sport coat (we settled on a paisley shirt and some purple-tinted glasses, possibly with an amping up of the facial hair).

Jaw-dropping moment: Having Carolyn Forche come up and start asking a series of intent questions on how my memoir was coming along, with her premising comment of "ever since we met and you told me about it, it's been on my mind." 

Lesson learned: That red heart-shaped lollipop may look like a good idea at the time, but you'll regret it as you're trying to have a serious conversation with Sven Birkerts at the AGNI table and it's still in your hand, half-licked. 

Funniest panel: "The Road Less Traveled: How to be a Writer Without a Full-time Academic Gig," in large part because of Steve Almond's totally unfiltered contributions, which at one point characterized Ru Freeman as "humping on the bare floor" because she and her husband were a few years into marriage before being able to afford a proper bed. As Ru was quick to point out (indignantly), there are plenty of places to have sex that aren't on a bed. This was a packed session, but I'm glad I insisted on hunkering down in the aisle. 

Most rewarding Q&A of a panel: "Women on Wanderlust: Travel Writing," when people gave very honest (and not entirely harmonious) answers and offered the audience editorial connections for the future. At so many panels, the Q&A marks the end of meaningful content. This one was great. Another full house. 

Most awkward politic: Every year AWP has a thriving and visible community of African-American writers paneling, reading, representing. DC has a thriving community of local writers (of all ethnicities) who devote their energies to furthering the literary culture of their city. DC has a thriving community of people who love Busboys & Poets as a venue. These groups, while certainly not being mutually exclusive, don't entirely overlap either. 

Best non-book item in the bookfair: The Rumpus's "Write Like a Motherfucker" mugs. 

Best perk: Realizing my apartment building shares a zone number with the conference, meaning I could park my DC-registered car on the street for unlimited stretches. 

Best getaways: Chicken soup at Nam Viet with Erika Meitner on the eve of the conference (my ONE meal out); a bloody mary in the hotel bar with Jehanne Dubrow instead of the not one, not two, but three panels I'd meant to attend in that same time slot; a pint of Smithwick's with John Griswold when all was nearly said and done. That last one involved, oddly enough, a story about putting Jennifer Egan in WW-II-era diving suit. 

Event I was sorriest to miss: Claudia Rankine's exchange/confrontation with Tony Hoagland as presented at her featured reading, in part following up on an incident involving Hoagland's appearance at last year's AWP. I can't say more because I wasn't there. But I hope someone else does because from what I hear, she was on point. 

Table I was sorriest to miss: New Issues, where wert thou? 

Who I was sorriest to miss: Mary Biddinger. That girl is just walking sunshine to me. 

Most silly fun: The dance floor at the Black Cat, during the party to support 826DC. I was coming off a fantastic Copper Nickel reading in the back room below (thanks to all who made that). I had found some Ole Miss friends to dance with. The DJ was doing some inventive transitions; people were wandering around in costume. That's what I like to see--writers getting down with their creative, shy, arrogant, dorky, seductive selves. Rock on. 

February 02, 2011

AWP in DC: What You Truly Need to Know

You're stressed by travel. You're overwhelmed by the conference schedule. You're wondering how on earth you're going to hit the ground running for AWP. Here's what you truly need to know.


THE NEIGHBORHOODS


The conference hotels are in what is referred to as Woodley Park, but that term refers primarily to residential areas; there isn't a significant nightlife. Luckily you're right near some great neighborhoods, and there is a metro entrance right by the Marriott. Dupont Circle is one stop south on the red line (head toward "Glenmont"). Cleveland Park is one stop north on the red line (head toward "Shady Grove").


Adams Morgan can be accessed by walking over the Duke Ellington Bridge--from the major intersection of Calvert & Connecticut Avenue, by the Omni, turn onto Calvert and walk a long curve toward the right, and up a hill, following the road as it changes into Adams Mill. Sounds more complicated than it is; drunk college kids do it all the time.Lots of dive bars along this stretch.  The Diner is open 24/7 and a great place for brunch. Madam's Organ has a live music and a really raucous blues bar atmosphere. The Black Squirrel has the best beer selection in the neighborhood (yes, even better than The Reef up the street--I'm sorry but someone has to say it, even though The Reef has been around forever). Oh, and Bourbon has five different types of fried potatoes on their menu: curly fries, waffle fries, sweet potato fries, shoestring fries, and tater tots. Yep, I'll see you there. 


The U Street neighborhood is a $7-10 cab ride. Highly recommended that you check it out (Ben's Chili Bowl! Busboys & Poets! speakeasy cocktails at The Gibson! which is so cool they don't even have a real website, so you can get an actual description here), but anyone that tells you to metro to a nearby stop on the green/yellow line is crazy--that is a horribly inefficient route from Woodley Park. There's theoretically a connecting bus line from Woodley to U Street, but it is unreliable. I say you taxi.


One bus line that IS reliable is the 42, which snakes through Dupont Circle, Adams Morgan (along Columbia Road), and up into Mount Pleasant.


Give yourself about 20 minutes to get to any of these neighborhoods. It looks like it should take less than that, I know. But trust me. That means that you're better off picking a neighborhood for each night's offsite events and sticking to it. I suspect 85% of the action will end up on Dupont Circle, but I'm biased by years of living there. If you're staying in Dupont, I strongly suggest grabbing some time for work/wifi at Soho Coffee, some shopping at Secondi, and some exotic vodkas at Russia House.


If you use the metro, as Charlie says, for the love of god--stand on the right! The left is reserved for those walking quickly. Also, be aware that most metro stops have two major exits, which can significantly change where you emerge street-side. If you are getting off at Dupont Circle, for example, use "Q Street" to get to Kramerbooks (a fabulous indie bookstore and late-night cafe) or Teaism (mmmm, sweet potato salad and bento boxes). Use "Dupont Circle" to get to the Big Hunt (many beers on draft) or Bread & Brew, two locations for offsite events this year. Taking the wrong exit will cost you an extra 10 minutes walking time.


THE BASICS


Closest liquor store - Sherry's Wine & Liquor at 2315 Calvert Street NW [Right by the Omni, but not within obvious sightline from Connecticut Avenue--go around the corner. P.S. - 10% off all single-malt scotches on Thursdays.]


Closest copy/mailing center - FedEx Office Print & Ship Center at 1812 Adams Mill Road NW [Walk toward Adams Morgan neighborhood; look for FedEx on your right, just before the major intersection of 18th & Columbia Roads.]


Closest grocery store - Whole Foods at 1440 P Street NW [Dupont Circle metro, Dupont Circle exit; head away from the Circle on P Street, crossing 18th Street as you walk; lot parking also available.] Also useful, in Cleveland Park: Brookville Supermarket & Yes! Organic Foods, in the 34oo block of Connecticut Avenue NW.


THE RESTAURANTS


There is tons of great food in DC, as attested to by Leslie. If you want tips on the great places in nearby neighborhoods, check out DC's Yelp page, the City Paper's "Young and Hungry" blog, or DCist. What I'm going to focus on here are a few places immediately adjacent to the conference hotels.


Open City - This place is gonna be swamped, but that doesn't mean it's a tourist trap. It's a neighborhood favorite because of its cheerful vibe and reasonable prices. Operated by the forces behind Adams Morgan's Tryst and The Diner (two of the most beloved venues in Northwest), Open City has an extensive menu of all-day breakfast options, generously sized salads, burgers, quirky sides--quinoa, glazed carrots--and consistently good specials and wines by the glass.


Lebanese Taverna - This local chain is great for groups sharing Middle Eastern small plates. Elegant but noisy setting (the tables are close together). Specialties include the shwarma, tartare, and falafel; if you're not crazy about garlic speak up in advance, because otherwise you'll be tasting it all night.


Medaterra - I've never understood why this place isn't more popular. Their $5 happy hour martinis are huge, their servers are sincere and attentive (always something I watch for, given my food allergies), no one hurries you on clearing the table, and their plates are generous. No, it's not hip--they haven't updated their menu or decor since 2005. Maybe 2000. But the lamb shank with green beans, the roasted half-chicken with french fries, and the vegetarian Koshari (green lentils and rice) are all great deals.


Tono Sushi - There's usually an automatic suspicion of a place that has $1 happy hour sushi. Don't be afraid! A good deal, with plenty of pan-asian entrees, and they have pretty fast turnover on orders. Just steer clear of specialty rolls than mention spicy mayo, which tends to be layered on way too thick. Not to be confused with Taro Sushi, a very upscale place in Dupont Circle. Sushi experts should consider going to Taro if money is no object. 


Mama Ayesha's - A hidden gem. I kind of hate to even mention it here. If you're in the mood for couscous, lamb kebab, or other savory comfort foods, this is worth the 7-minute walk across the Ellington Bridge...especially since the AWP crowds may be far less than those on Connecticut Avenue.


Some people love New Heights (contemporary American, pricey, and not to be confused with "The Heights" in Mount Pleasant). Others swear by The Afghan Grill for its authenticity--Sebastian Junger chose to have lunch there when being profiled by a Washington Post reporter for his most recent book, War. I can't vouch for either personally, but worth a look.


And again, just to be clear--if you were coming to DC FOR THE FOOD, these would not be the places I'd send you. I'd love to take you to Ethiopic for injera and spicy vegetables, or Mourayo for the octopus with fava puree, or Jaleo for brussels sprouts roasted with serrano ham, or Sei for sashimi. But you're coming to DC for the books, and the readings, and the community. So I'm not going to recommend a half-hour sojourn to Rasika just because they serve chic Indian food and the Obamas love it.


That said, if you're looking for a culinary night out, back-channel me and I'll see if I can help. All I need to know is the target neighborhood and cuisine.


THE SIGHTS


People will tell you to go to the Corcoran Gallery of Art, or Eastern Market on Capitol Hill, or to play mini golf at the H Street Country Club. All awesome destinations, but...they're not being realistic about what you can get to from Woodley Park, especially if the weather is bad. Here are four places you can go to get away from AWP for an hour and a half, without derailing your day's schedule.


Smithsonian American Art Museum / National Portrait Gallery - These museums dovetail in a grand space formerly occupied by the Old Patent Office building, housing both a stunning modern/American art collection and, for the history buffs, a chance to see many iconic faces and works. Of all the Smithsonian institutions, this is by far the most accessible to the conference; it is also the only one that stays open until 7 PM on weekdays. [Free. Take the red line metro to Gallery Place/Chinatown stop and use the "Arena" exit; SAAM is immediately across the street.]


Washington National Cathedral -  Beautiful, meditative space that is truly unique to our city. The stained glass is worth the trip alone, including a panel that features an embedded moon rock.  Overhear a choir practice, go up to the top level and take in the view, and spy the stone carving of Darth Vader. [Free. Inexpensive parking on site; walking distance, if you're ambitious and the sidewalks are not icy.]


National Zoo - When I used to walk that stretch of Connecticut Avenue for work every day, I would turn off and take a five-minute break to watch the quintet of baby cheetahs. Though the cheetahs are a little bigger now, they're still fun to watch--and we've got lion cubs (!), pandas, and an always-entertaining Ape House. [Free. Inexpensive parking on site; reasonable walk from Woodley Park.]


Phillips Collection - Probably my favorite private art collection in DC. Highlights include the beauty of the original Duncan Phillips house, the Rothko room, and works by Degas, O'Keeffe, and Steiglitz. For those staying in Dupont, note that the cafe is a lovely refuge and accessible without paying. [$10-12 admission, but you're supporting a gallery recovering from a major fire; worth the money! Feasible street parking, or take the red line metro to Dupont Circle and use the Q Street exit.]


Monuments? I love them too. And if you've never been to DC, it would be a damn shame to not visit them. The Lincoln Memorial has the best presidential statue--filled with emotion and mammoth in size. The Jefferson Memorial has the most scenic location, though a bit cluttered up with  preservation efforts right now. The Vietnam Veterans Memorial has the strongest dramatic impact. The World War II Memorial is all pomp and circumstance, wreaths and fountains, but it is done well if you like the style. The FDR Memorial has the best curation of texts, and innovative uses of stone and water. (You'll notice I don't mention the Washington Memorial, which can be seen from afar; nothing is gained in getting up close to the base. And a White House visit requires too much advance planning.)


The problem? All these sites are downtown. Far from Woodley Park. The solution? Collar someone with a car, and GO AT NIGHT. These memorials are all operated by the National Park Service, which means they are open to the public 24 hours a day, seven days a week. The NPS websites above have the details; most have reserved stretches nearby for parking, and traffic dies down significantly in those areas after 8 PM. Quite frankly, I love memorials best by moonlight anyway; I even wrote about it for the Washington Post Magazine.


Look...


I would like for you to have at least a half-decent time in DC, winter storm oblivion notwithstanding. It is my city. These are my neighborhoods, as you might have guessed from the level of detail above. Please, please, think about coming back to visit when the cherry blossoms are in bloom.


If you might want to meet in person during the conference, please consider making it out to either one of my readings on Friday, February 4:


9 AM - "Potomac Review Celebrates Best of 50" with Julie Wakeman-Linn, Kirk Nesset, Sandra Beasley, Jacob Appel, Jennine Capó Crucet, and Marilyn Kallet. [Omni Shoreham Hotel, aka "the fancy hotel," Diplomat Ballroom of the West Lobby.]


7 PM - Reading in celebration of Copper Nickel's latest issue with Sandra Beasley, Anna Journey, Kyle Dargan, Merrill Feitell, David Keplinger, Wayne Miller, and Michael Martone at the Black Cat, 1811 14th Street NW. [Metro to Dupont Circle/Q Street exit, and use Q to walk to 14th Street; the numbered streets should be going down.]


Or just look for me at the hotel bars. I'll have my flask. And if you're coming to this blog for the first time--or for the first time in a while--please check out Crown's trailer for my forthcoming book, Don't Kill the Birthday Girl: Tales from an Allergic Life. 


I know, you're anxious. But it's AWP! We'll make the best of it. See you there~

February 01, 2011

Radio Free AWP

At a 2009 AWP panel I met John Griswold--a sweet, smart, funny writer who pens a column for Inside Higher Ed under the byline of Oronte Churm. Not that his writing skills end there. John is also the author of the novel A Democracy of Ghosts, a ForeWord Magazine Book of the Year, and a nonfiction history of the same hellraising town--located in an Illinois county often called “Bloody Williamson."


Our chance meeting led to a November 2009 guest post at "The Education of Oronte Churm" called "Let It Rain," which detailed the quirky circumstances under which I left my full-time job and embarked on the sometimes thrilling, sometimes exhausting, always tenuous path to becoming a full-time writer.


I'm delighted to once again be a part of John's blog, this time in the form of having a podcast on my work included in the line-up for "Radio Free AWP." Hunger Mountain editor Dana Burchfield spent some time with I Was the Jukebox and put together a gorgeous meditation on poetry in the cacophonous space of everyday life. I'm honored to have my comments and readings of poems interspersed with her thoughts.


These podcasts will be available for free downloading all week starting Wednesday, simultaneous to the AWP Conference here in Washington, DC. For those attending the conference in person, there will be some opportunities to win associated raffle prizes. (Thanks to W. W. Norton for donating a copy of my book!) For those unable to make it in, especially given the perilous weather, it'll be a nice distraction from afar. 


A full program is included here, but here is what I'm really looking forward to:
  • National Book Award finalist in poetry Patricia Smith and crime novelist Bruce DeSilva—wife and husband—interview each other on writing, art, public lives, and domesticity.
  • Amy Hassinger (The Priest’s Madonna) and Fred Arroyo (The Region of Lost Names) introduce Lewis Hyde's The Gift and discuss its cult status among writers.
  • Matthew Gavin Frank reads from the beginning of Pot Farm (forthcoming 2012, University of Nebraska Press), his hazy and sometimes inaccurate nonfiction book about his work on a Northern California medical marijuana farm.
  • The staff of Creative Nonfiction offer an inside look at how they read, what they look for, and how they choose themes for issues.
  • Bob Shacochis, National Book Award winner, on adventures on the Kamchatka Peninsula.
  • Etgar Keret, Israeli writer (Missing Kissinger, The Girl on the Fridge) and filmmaker (Jellyfish, winner of the Caméra d’Or at Cannes) reads his short story “Shoes.”
  • The Southern Foodways Alliance, an institute of the Center for the Study of Southern Culture at the University of Mississippi, with oral histories of people talking about their food culture.

Again, check here for each day's downloads. As someone who has been crisscrossing the country by car for the last six months, I'm learning to appreciate this type of programming in a way I never did before. Much as I love a little guilty-pleasure Top 100 radio listening, sometimes you need to tune in to something that feeds your brain. Enjoy!